This article analyzes Marc Jacobs' latest fashion show, held at the New York Public Library. The author interprets the exaggerated proportions, playful silhouettes, and surreal footwear as a bold statement of fashion grandstanding, a response to the current global climate of uncertainty and upheaval.
We’re living in an upside-down world. Of burning cities and drowned towns. Of leaders who’ve made enemies of our friends, and friends of our enemies. Of the contraction and elimination of basic human rights. It hardly seems the time for a chic little skirt suit, or a neat crewneck and cords, or a 1950s cocktail number with a sweet pair of pumps, even if many of us who remember the Marc Jacobs of another era long for such simple things. No—actually, now’s a time for fashion grandstanding.
That’s the message I took from the designer’s show at the New York Public Library tonight. Jacobs was playing in the same key of extreme hyperbole as he was last season. By exaggerating proportions with what might’ve been foam insets in sweaters and what definitely were oddly placed darts on pants. By flattening some skirts so they conjured cut-out paper dolls and inflating others to look like oddly shaped rocks . And by adding pillowy volumes to dresses of the trapeze and hourglass varieties.
Jacobs prefers not to speak to the press at his shows these days; instead he prepares notes. This season’s began with the word “courage” and ended with a kind of plea. “With precious freedom we dream and imagine without limitation… not to escape from reality but to help navigate, understand, and confront it, exploring through curiosity, conviction, compassion, and love.”
Jacobs has more conviction in his little finger than some designers have in their entire bodies. Consider the giant boots whose tips curled up like elves’ shoes, or the evening heels with surreally long points—that kind of outrageous footwear takes real courage, but I’m more interested in his powers of persuasion.
There’s no making sense of dreams, their fantastical aspects are actually essential to their appeal, but I did wonder about the sequined dots covering the models’ lips. Maybe they were another one of Jacobs’ messages: The world’s hanging by a thread. Friends, let’s use our voices.
FASHION DESIGNER MARC JACOBS NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SOCIAL COMMENTARY
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