Katie Irish designed the costumes for 'Manhunt' starring Tobias Menzies, Anthony Boyle, and more for Apple TV+.
“The thing that occurred to me is that so often when we watch these period pieces, they all seem sepia-toned. That’s not the reality of what it looked like,” says Irish. “Given the advances that had happened in technology, everyone was mad for color. They loved it,” she adds. “And so I put a note on there that was like, I know that this is how this period has typically been presented, but just to make you aware, we can go as bold as you want.
A self-described “research nerd and geek,” Irish rooted her process in history but was willing to tweak details in support of the overall visual story. “We’re not doing a reenactment and we’re not doing an actual historical document of ‘this is exactly how it happened.’ It is historical fiction. And so we do take a couple of licenses.”
Staying true to that overall look, she played with texture within his darker color palette. She also contrasted Booth’s costumes with the lighter palette of his accomplice and frequent scene partner, David Herold, for visual variation. Booth (played by“You get all the beautiful costumes from the tailors and then my lead distressor would be like, OK, so this one — we need to have a tear in the pant from where mud cut off the boot, and cut up the pant leg a little bit,” she says.
“Lincoln calls Mars, who is the god of war, and the animal associated with Mars is a wolf. And so he has a little pocket watch fob that has a wolf on it and we have buttons on one of the vests that are custom that have wolves on them,” she says. “It’s not even necessarily about being Easter eggs, but about telling the actors, this is what this means. And it helps them so often with their internal journey.
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