“It takes a certain technique to get this done right. You must mix it properly, stretch it properly, let it rest, and maintain specific temperature.”
Follow me on a brief regression if you will: The year is 1971 and my mother and I were visiting the town of Sóller, on the island of Mallorca—soaking up the magical mix of sun, scenery, and of course food. As we strolled through the town square, imagine my hungry young eyes locking on the hypnotic spiral pastries being prominently displayed in the local bakery window. I was undeniably transfixed.
Historical atrocities aside, let’s move on to the topic of bad taste. If you’ve ever traveled to Spain, you’ve no doubt encountered this ubiquitous Mallorcan pastry—in airport shops where the hint of flaccid cardboard flavor, is telegraphed by the stacked, octagonal containers on display, or perhaps you’ve sampled a saucer-sized, generic Ensaïmada with coffee at some random tourist cafe. These are not the spots I recommend you experience this centuries old artisanal treat at it’s best.
After moving back to NY to helm Mercado Little Spain’s ambitious pastry program as their executive pastry chef, she was given a menu to execute that included a very basic Ensaïmada recipe. This launched her on a many months long journey of testing and refinement. She even traveled back to Spain, eating her way through dozens of Mallorcan pastisserias, all in service of refining the recipe she shares with us below.
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