To bring some comfort food into your kitchen, and ahead of MothersDay, one Vogue writer shares the secret (and delicious) scallion pancake recipe passed down to her, a first-generation Shanghainese-American.
and the Mexico City restaurant An-An MX, says, “It’s something that’s accessible if you can get your hands on flour. It’s just so affordable to make. And it’s comforting. Everyone is looking towards things that are comforting but also sort of foreign, so they can spice things up a little bit at home. I think scallion pancakes fit the bill.”
“I do think it’s so important, this legacy of recreation,” notes Chang, who named Po-Po’s after the grandmother from whom she learned traditional Chinese recipes. “Even if your grandparents aren’t around, you should really go back into the treasure trove of recipes that you grew up with or ideas of those foods and try to do it because only you know what exactly that dish is going to taste like. It’s pretty powerful.
In Shanghai dialect, my mom patiently walked me through each part of the process, demonstrating how to roll them one way and then the other with a napkin. She scrutinized the thickness of each rolled-out piece of dough and laughed when I got too ambitious trying to stuff in more scallions than the flat pancake wanted to hold. I accidentally burned the first one, but after making three more, I finally got the stamp of approval: “They look like mine!” she exclaimed.
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