For our latest issue, makeup artist Daniel Sallstrom conjured a visual fantasy inspired by his own creative icons: the French photographer-artists Pierre Molinier, Serge Lutens, and Irina Ionesco.
London-based makeup artist Daniel Sallstrom describes this story as “fan fiction” inspired by the work of his three creative heroes: the French photographer-artists Pierre Molinier, Serge Lutens, and Irina Ionesco. “The way they made images in the 1950s, ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s was absolutely groundbreaking,” Sallstrom says. “Molinier created incredible collages with hands, legs, and other body parts.
For this shoot, Sallstrom and photographer Jordan Hemingway incorporated plenty of stylistic nods to Molinier, Ionesco, and Lutens—faces obscured with lace or covered in white pigment; bodies that resemble fragmented statues; dramatic headdresses, dark sets, and sky-high hair sculptures—but managed to alchemize them into something innovative.
Sallstrom spent his formative years in the late ’90s in Gothenburg, a city on Sweden’s west coast. “The thing about Sweden is that it’s quite a bleak place,” he says. “You barely get any sun in the winter, and then way too much in the summer, when it never goes down. The bleakness caused me to have a love affair with the slightly darker things in life.”
Sallstrom started experimenting with makeup and women’s clothing when he was 13, and the endless performative and transformative options of cosmetics continue to fascinate him. “I used my face as a canvas and became interested in the way you can create characters, tell stories, and manipulate situations with makeup,” he says. “You can make a masculine face into a feminine one, or vice versa. You can turn yourself into a cat, morph into a sexy mistress, or even become an abstract painting.
You can also move to London at age 19, be discovered by MAC, become one of the most in-demand makeup artists in fashion, and get to work with the likes of Rihanna, Grace Jones, Kanye West, Rick Owens, Alessandro Michele, Naomi Campbell, Dominique Jackson, and Bella Hadid, all before age 36. Sallstrom’s signature style? “I don’t think I really have one,” he says. Trends aren’t his driving force either. “Self-expression is what inspires me most.
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