John Galliano explored 'Bourgeois gestures' while introducing 'Recicla,' the integration of vintage pieces at Margiela.
“The bourgeois gesture” has occupied John Galliano’s thoughts of late, beginning with the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection he showed in January. For ready-to-wear, he continued that investigation with grace and quiet power.
Galliano worked from familiar baselines, starting with uniform codes of dressing, integrating the signature regalia of leisure disciplines — fishing, hiking, sailing — as well as those of social uniforms, as in a proper lady’s pretty dress or pussy-bow blouse or a sturdy coat, tossed over the shoulders.
In his podcast, he referred to his approach as “restorative,” and said, “I like the idea of maybe kick-starting a consciousness into enjoying these gestures.” Familiar codes, he maintains, restore a sense of belonging. He opened with a series of outerwear elements, “memory of” coats distilled down to a collar and facings attached to a sheer base or a single colorful, abundant sleeve and bow-neck collar.
The concept of “restoration” didn’t begin and end with Galliano’s invocation of bourgeois codes. Rather, it took on a literal meaning with his ”Recicla” initiative, actual vintage pieces he and his team sourced and integrated into the collection, sometimes as a single item, and sometimes incorporated into other items, as with dresses cut open over vintage cashmere sweaters.
Galliano noted in his podcast that such upcycling serves a dual purpose. First, it references Martin Margiela’s early embrace of vintage items that he would replicate in his collections, and it speaks to the need for fashion to slow down, while “giving something another life.” On Galliano’s watch, that second fashion life radiated chic currency.
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