The Isaia fashion show will mark the debut of creative director Damiano Biella who designed the women's offering.
On Sunday, Isaia will hold a runway show at Circolo Filologico Milanese, Via Clerici 10, only the third show in the company’s 105-year history. But with a new creative director on board — Damiano Biella — a solid presence at retail and a full womenswear collection to showcase for the first time, the company believes the time is right.
“We went from over 100 wholesale accounts in Germany to 15 in one season,” he said. “And because we were producing everything we lost a lot of production. It was very, very tough. So I said: ‘Women’s? Never again.’”“I spent a lot of years without even thinking about a women’s collection, but I feel we are a much stronger brand than we were in in the ’90s,” he explained. “We have our own strong identity and a lifestyle in the collection that is not just about product.
Although womenswear, which was reintroduced in a small way a couple of years ago, still represents less than 10 percent of the company’s overall sales, Isaia is confident the collection will do well thanks to Biella’s rich experience. “He’s doing mostly women’s but he’s working on the men’s as wellbusiness. He worked with Valentino, he worked with Tom Ford, he worked with Carolina Herrera, and he joined us a year and a half ago. I put him under a lot of pressure, making so many collections in a very short time.”
For the show at Circolo Filologico, the cultural center will be transformed into a literary salon inspired by Bellavista’s home, the company said. Quotes and phrases from De Crescenzo’s work will accompany the presentation. In addition, in-house production allows Isaia to have more control over the quality of the offering and better serve its customers. For instance, he said, the company can now produce made-to-measure jeans or sweaters in addition to its core suit or outerwear offerings. The company now operates seven stores or shops in the U.S. as well as units in London, Milan, Rome, Toronto, St. Moritz, Tokyo, Saudi Arabia and other countries.
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