See every look from LouisVuitton's fall 2021 collection now.
A year ago, in the Before Times, Nicolas Ghesquière staged the last fashion show as we used to know them. Today he was back at it, only without an audience or the 200 choral singers who performed in that season’s special Es Devlin–designed set. But COVID restrictions aside, the Louis Vuitton creative director was certainly not hurting for supporting players.
Ghesquière made a runway of the Louvre’s Denon wing, his models mingling with ancient Roman, Greek, and Etruscan sculptures to the tunes of Daft Punk’s mega-hit “Around the World.” The notoriously hard-to-get duo agreed to lend the song for the show weeks ago, he said, pre-breakup. He also divined a collaboration with the Italian design atelier Fornasetti, and its famous hand-drawn faces of women from antiquity peered out from all manner of clothes and leather goods.
That was the point: “Since we are all in a motionless situation, we have to double our imagination of inventing an extraordinary journey,” Ghesquière said during a Zoom preview. That goes for the collection as much as the production values surrounding it. A year in lockdown has nurtured designers’ decorative instincts, in spite of—or perhaps because of—the collective turn to sweatpants and other home wear. In anticipation of a late 2021 reemergence, fashion has gone absolutely extroverted.
Operating at high frequency, Ghesquière lavished attention on both silhouettes and surface treatments. Propelled by the concept of movement, he alternated between blouson jackets and cocooning capes on the one hand and elongated torsos punctuated with skirts that bubbled around the knees on the other. Nearly all the looks were accompanied by wedge-heel boots with a slouchy, swaggering disposition.
“I wanted something impactful, something that conveys hope and joy for what’s coming next, and for people to have a good time watching,” Ghesquière said. “A moment of fashion.” The video ends with the last model peering up at the Winged Victory of Samothrace, a Hellenistic sculpture dating to the 2nd century B.C. that has occupied its current spot in the Louvre since 1884. As Beyoncé made abundantly clear in the video she made at the museum with Jay Z., Victoire is a potent symbol.
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