Los Angeles birria legend Silverio Moreno has died at age 73 (via eaterla)
Around 1997, Silverio Moreno and Amparo Luis began selling birria de chivo out of their home in East LA. Luis had worked as a cook alongside her father, Guadalupe Gutierrez; mother, Maria del Refugio Bustos; and brother, Saul Luis Bustos, at their birria stand in the Mercado Municipal Nochistlán, called Birrieria El Chivo, which is still in business.
The quiet, somewhat reclusive Moreno loved his alone time at the restaurant, where he’d begin his prep shortly after midnight, beginning to cook around 2 a.m. He would stay up all night watching Mexican politics videos on YouTube, especially anything about AMLO , or playing Scratchers, until the birria was ready around 6:30 a.m. The restaurant was his sanctuary.
In Los Angeles, the elder Moreno worked at a car wash and was a janitor for a long time at Saint John Bosco High School in Bellflower, an all-male Catholic preparatory high school. Eventually, he saved enough money to take over a Mexican restaurant in Boyle Heights, Flor del Rio,in 2002. At the time, birria was not trendy.
Family members of Birrieria Nochistlán : Rosio Moreno, Amparo Luis Bustos, Javier Moreno, Silverio Moreno, Violeta Moreno.of the past few years has created many opportunities for young birrieros, and entrepreneurs who are social media and brand savvy. But the loss of Silverio is profound, as one of LA’s original birria artisans, whose deeply fragrant birria crossed over into a mainstream Angeleno audience, long before the rise of these new birria de res kings.
“He was a good father, and a good man, and was so patient with all of us,” says Rosio. ”And the most important thing for us right now is that all his hard work will carry on, which is what he wanted us to do.”Check your inbox for a welcome email.
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