Litter & Vintage Mugler: How the 'Fantasmas' Costumes Tap Into Julio Torres’s Mind

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Litter & Vintage Mugler: How the 'Fantasmas' Costumes Tap Into Julio Torres’s Mind
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Costume designer Chloe Karmin on dressing Alexa Demie and Steve Buscemi for the “art project on film.”

, is a living, breathing collage of references and inspirations, ranging from the ornate old world to the peculiarly whimsical, recontextualized for the digital age. “The challenge—or the exciting part—of the show was having so many disparate stories and knowing that it would all be united by Julio's voice,” says costume designer Chloe Karmin.

“Challenge” wouldn’t be an unfair word to put forth when describing Karmin’s task of dressing the ever-rotating cast of characters inMany live within the faux New York City setting in which the main storyline takes place, but narrative side quests throughout the series’s six episodes introduce the viewer to an anthropomorphized punk rock “Q” , an ongoing trial between Santa Claus and one especially fed-up elf, and a gay nightclub-turned-CVS for hamsters.

Some of her dresses were $20, and some were thrifted or borrowed. We used vintage Mugler, vintage Valentino, even vintage Betsey Johnson, but I don’t want to say which is which. All of her looks got to be so camp, but every time we made sure to ask, “Does this fit into her performance?” It was never supposed to be a fashion show, but the projection of a performer. is so much fun. Anyone who gets to dress and collaborate with them is so lucky.

Then there’s Alexa Demie’s scene. Before the show even came out, the Internet was talking about her vintage Galliano moment. Alexa was a last-minute casting addition, so we didn't really have time to shop for her. In the end, Alexa brought a suit of her own—a vintage Galliano from—because she's a professional. We’d already designed Ziwe’s look, but once Alexa’s color palette was set, we decided to put Ziwe in a gray and brown vintage Yves Saint Laurent suit. It became obvious that these two characters were cut from the same cloth.

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