The hotel brings a dose of fun to the capital, and bills itself as a place for explorers
They’re understated compared to the public spaces, the work of Lázaro Rosa-Violán, known by people who care about such things as the designer of Lisbon’s JNcQUOI restaurants and members’ club . Here, he clearly had a lot of fun with period photographs, vintage travel books, framed uniforms and route maps, animal sculptures and other expedition bric-a-brac. .
Or you can go down to the main dining room, which practically drips with glamour. It has warm lighting—something that’s still in oddly short supply in Lisbon—coffered ceilings and long red banquettes. Chefs work in an open kitchen on one end, and meats dry-age in a display on the other. When it became the talk of Lisbon right after its opening, that wasn’t because of the food. But the food is tasty—better than it has to be in a place that could get by on its good looks alone. The focus in the main restaurant is luxe takes on traditional Neapolitan food, like lobster linguine, spider crab ravioli and ossobuco with saffron risotto.
It’s all executed quite well, as was everything else during my recent overnight there. The service is snappy and strikes the right balance between friendly and professional. Perhaps that’s because the hotel is , meaning it has international standards and, for those who care about such things, it’s part of Marriott’s loyalty program.
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