The designer planned an event at the Yohji Yamamoto SoHo store Tuesday night.
, who designs the Tokyo-based Limi Feu women’s collection, is in New York this week for a takeover of the To launch the residency, the company planned an event at the store Tuesday evening centered around an immersive installation imagined by Yamamoto, which will be in-store from Tuesday through Sunday.
The company is also collaborating with Eri Wakiyama on an exclusive capsule collection to be unveiled at the event. It consists of four T-shirt designs and one shirt with Wakiyama’s artwork, along with a limited-edition collectible doll and doll keychain, both handmade by Wakiyama.
Adidas Y-3 Is Dropping Super Aggressive and Realistic 'Beast' Soccer Shoes The Limi Feu brand has limited distribution in the U.S., selling to such stores as If and Atelier in New York, Mayfield LA, and’s U.S. flagship in SoHo. The company has been selling the collection at the 1,600-square-foot Yamamoto flagship since it opened three years ago at 52 Wooster Street.
The designer, the daughter of Yohji Yamamoto, is based in Tokyo, and has been designing the Limi Feu collection for 25 years with her own atelier and team. Tuesday morning, Yamamoto met with WWD to talk about her New York visit and her business in the U.S., which she is looking to grow. She answered questions through an interpreter.
When asked why she decided to visit New York, she said she wanted to build more exposure for the brand in the U.S. Yamamoto shows Limi Feu during Paris Fashion Week. Yamamoto explained that her identity is completely different from her father’s.
First, his collection is aimed at men, and hers is geared to women. She’s a woman designer making clothes for women. Her collection is also inspired by music and rock ‘n’ roll. She’s also very big on deconstruction.
What’s unique about Limi is that she does it all herself with patterns. She likes to say she’s not a fashion designer, she’s a patternmaker.
In addition to deconstruction, there’s also a lot of draping in her designs, which heavily lean toward black.
“We wanted to show how we mix archive pieces and pieces of this collection, you cannot see the difference. They’re really timeless,” she said, pointing to a mannequin display with archival and current spring pieces. For the event, they wanted to re-introduce the brand and show its strength and timelessness. Asked if she has a preference for spring or fall clothing, Yamamoto said she prefers designing spring because she enjoys designing with light fabrics.
Yamamoto said when she visits New York, which she does every two years or so, she likes to observe people.
“It’s different. There’s a lot of energy here in the city,” said Yamamoto. She plans a short visit in New York, and is then headed to Mayfield LA, before throwing herself into the next collection. Discussing who she views as her customer, Yamamoto said she creates clothes for a person that is fighting with themselves and has a little bit of rebellion.
“Everything is handcrafted of Japanese fabrics and Japanese manufacturing,” she said, adding that all the patterns are handmade. Yamamoto also designs accessories such as handbags and footwear, and has a collaboration with Doc Martens. Asked if she’ll ever take over Yohji Yamamoto’s position, she said, “That’s the big question, right? ” but declined to elaborate.
In London, Limi Feu is available at Yohji Yamamoto’s Wildside Savile Row store, located on Conduit Street, just a few doors away from the Yohji Yamamoto flagship. In Paris, her collection is sold at the Y’s store at Rue du Louvre. The company opened a Limi Feu store in Tokyo Aoyama last January, which she said is really doing well. Yamamoto said someday she’d like to have a freestanding store in New York, right near Yohji’s store.
She said she has several collaborations and would love to have one with music, perhaps for headphones. As far as how her collections reflect the state of the world, she said, her collection reflects her mind and what she’s feeling about what’s going on in the world.
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