Encompassing 100 examples of men’s and women’s attire, the show explores some of the untold and incomplete stories about American fashion from the 19th to the mid-to-late 20th century.
During a preview Sunday afternoon, the Costume Institute’s Wendy Yu curator in charge Andrew Bolton said: “A lot of the names aren’t household names. The ultimate ambition is to make people think differently about the history of fashion and to think about it in a more nuanced way, and not accepting received histories…many of these women in this exhibition were important and influential in their day. But they just seem to have been forgotten and overlooked.
Not to be missed is Tom Ford’s take of “The Battle of Versailles,” the 1973 fashion showdown between American and European designers at Versailles. Ford reimagined airborne chrome mannequins fencing and midair martial arts-like with a Stephen Burrows dress and other designs that were shown in The Battle of Versailles in the gallery with John Vanderlyn’s 1819 panoramic view of Versailles.
“Even in the ’30s and ’40s when Dorothy Shaver was promoting this initiative, you had other women designers who didn’t participate but were doing their own thing and often wearing custom clothes. That narrative [which is also featured in the exhibition] I am really happy with. It does challenge that received history of American sportswear tradition,” Bolton said.
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