Libertine's fall 2023 collection has arrived. View every look:
Minimalism isn’t part of Johnson Hartig’s vocabulary, but monochrome is. The designer started showing solids in spring 2022 and he reports that they’re selling well. Why? “I think they fit beautifully. They’re so easy. They’re elongating. Everyone looks taller and slimmer in them, and it’s just a really easy, chic, complete outfit,” he said on a walk-through. “There’s a new Libertine person out there that’s getting used to Libertine without everything.
Hartig’s instinct to clean things up a bit—this is Libertine we’re talking about—is spot on. After five seasons of creating OTT lookbooks to present his collections it was time for a change. For fall, the line-up has been photographed against a white background on the designer’s friend, the super stylist B. Åkerlund, who, unlike the young models of past lookbooks, carries the clothes with a mature confidence; plus she’s probably more representative of the Libertine customer.
Libertine’s story has been told before, but it’s rooted in the DIY tradition and early collections featured vintage clothes that had been silk-screened or otherwise maximized. That model changed as stores asked for consistent sizing, which is hard to achieve when repurposing existing garments, and as the supply of “quality vintage” has dwindled or become prohibitively expensive. “When you think about it, the last 25 years has been Forever 21, just crap clothes, so there’s nothing out there.
The pieces in Harris tweed are particularly chic, could be described as retro, but might be more actually called classic. You could pair the blast-from-the-past straight skirt with a tie-neck silk blouse, any number of toppers, or a body hugging jacket with a horse head silkscreened on the back, a not to “old Libertine.
Today a lot of creative direction is focused on styling and creating moods. Walking through the fall collection with Hartig, I was reminded just how much hand work goes into Libertine pieces. This level of craftsmanship is usually seen in evening wear of the red-carpet variety: here it’s dressy but not so formal, which feels modern, and also personal. More than 20 years on, Hartig is still very much hands-on.
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