Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon (batch A123) review: Heaven Hill forges into 2023 with a 125 proof expression of their house wheated bourbon recipe. whiskey bourbon cocktails
Since its debut at the beginning of 2020, I have often gone back and forth on my impression of Heaven Hill’s Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon series. When the series first began, the first few batches didn’t really grab my imagination—although I loved the idea of a cask strength wheated bourbon from Heaven Hill, offering some of the same high value in the segment asthe early batches struck me as too youthful or astringent to hold up to their own advanced proof point.
It’s been enough at least to recapture my interest in the series before this, the most recent batch, A123. Like all batches of Larceny Barrel Proof, this is from Heaven Hill’s wheated bourbon mash bill, aged roughly 6-8 years. It’s bottled at a pretty stout 125.8 proof, which is actually the second highest in the history of the series, trailing only the 126.6 proof expression from C922.
On the palate, this one has a thicker, syrupy texture that hints at its sweetness as well. The fruit is there again, preserves or jam-like, with raspberry and strawberry, along with touches of different spice—cinnamon, clove and something more like cola. At the same time, there are more youthful grain impressions, with hints of doughy biscuit or bread. It’s also slightly grassy or herbaceous, with a finish pushing back in the direction of sweet, candied fruits.
All in all, this is a solid batch of Larceny BP, though the grain-forward flavors make it read as a bit youthful to me. Some of the best batches I’ve tasted in this series from late 2022 didn’t have the same emphasis on those notes, which ultimately makes them still my favorite Larceny BP batches I’ve had to date. A123, however, seems to continue trending in a positive direction, and I’m hopeful that 2023 will bring more good things to the series.
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