At La Poteria Local in Montgomery Village, you can find pandebono, palitos de queso, buñuelos, arepa toast, perros caliente, pan de waffles and tropical fruit smoothies, some items more traditional to the streets of Bogotá than others.
In its native habitat — that is, the homes and bakeries of Colombia — pandebono is a shape-shifter. Sometimes the cheese bread assumes the form of a pint-size Chinese pork bun, and sometimes it looks more like a Montreal bagel. At La Poteria Local, in a Montgomery Village shopping center on the fringes of Gaithersburg, the owners prefer the bun design.
This jigsaw puzzle of influences is one of the many charms of La Poteria Local, a Colombian cafe that’s custom-built for suburban Marylanders, like me, who have never dined in Bogotá, or anywhere else in the country, and. It’s Colombian street food — one step removed, occasionally augmented with other ingredients and ideas, and executed with care by a pair of Bogotá natives who, like so many immigrants before them, came to America to discover their love of cooking.
La Pote-Ria thrived, even during the pandemic, and the couple decided they should make the jump to a storefront in September 2021, when they opened La Poteria Local. They started selling just empanadas and coffee, in a nod to the cafes of their hometown. “You walk around and you’re going to find a place with coffee and empanadas,” Pulecio told me. “It’s like our McDonald’s.”
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