At 450 seats, La Grande Boucherie is big, beautiful and something of a wreck.
From the moment it opened in April, dozens of you have asked me if I’ve visited La Grand Boucherie, the splashy French talker near the White House.Everybody seems amazed that the space — the historic National Bank building on the corner of 14th and G streets — sat vacant for nearly 30 years.
The decor does its best to divert your attention. Stefkov says his company is “trying to revive epic buildings around the country, and eventually the world.” In a phone call from Lisbon, where the native of Macedonia owns a restaurant carved from a 400-year-old convent, Stefkov tells me, “I find Washington, D.C., to be the most elegant city in the U.S.”
A few other dishes rise to the occasion. Oysters on the half shell are cool, well-shucked introductions. Escargots are solid, too, reminders that butter and garlic improve pretty much whatever they douse. And kudos to the bar, whose life rings embrace a winning combination of vodka, sparkling wine, lychee, cranberry and Lillet Blanc, a.k.a. La Vie en Rose.
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