Kitchen takeover by a Pinoy New Yorker

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Kitchen takeover by a Pinoy New Yorker
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Kitchen genius and restaurateur Francis Balbarin, the New Yorker who opened Burgers and Brewskies in the Philippines with his creative takes on burgers, was in Manila for a weeklong takeover

And then it was a series of wins: For a taste of chicken inasal, he made an inasal butter, which he lathered on really thinly sliced mille crepe cake-like potatoes. This was followed by a sinigang sa miso but as a gazpacho. He served escabeche but as a roulade. He served puchero but with his take on mofongo, a Puerto Rican dish made with fried green plaintains mashed with chicharones and garlic.

But for me, the winner of his nine-course degustation is his tinola. For this, he cooked down chicken feet and bones of organic chicken to create a gelatin of concentrated tinola broth. The broth also had in it other tinola components like sayote. Then he topped it with—get this—patis “caviar”! What a brilliant, avant-garde interpretation of the humble tinola.

He finished strong with something that all Filipinos are familiar with: street food. On the side streets of Manila, you will see vendors selling green mangos and singkamas that you dip in bagoong —except he made it a dessert: sorbet and ice cream! He created the most refreshing singkamas sorbet and beside it was green mango ice cream. And not to be missed is the bagoong except it’s—get this—caramelized! The stay of Kiko in Manila this time was way too short.

Until then, congratulations Kiko! You are truly a kitchen genius and congratulations to James and Daughters for a successful pop-up! Thank you Chef Jonas Ng for flying him in for us to partake of his brilliant creations through your kitchen. Please bring him in again if you can!Subscribe to our daily newsletter

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