Kimchi With a Side of Whale

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Kimchi With a Side of Whale
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Maktak and kimchi is one of the many hybridizations of niqipiaq (Native foods) that Iñupiat people harvest from the sea and tundra that surround Utqiagvik. The dish represents acceptance of influence from elsewhere

as the census estimated. The IWC allowed a small quota and added acoustic monitoring tools to their census efforts, which revealed that the AEWC was correct — scientists were miscounting whales as they dropped below the ice out of sight of the census station., the North Slope Borough Department of Wildlife Management conducts a regular census of the bowhead whale population, using methods co-developed with the AEWC, to help NOAA and the AEWC set subsistence harvest levels through the IWC.

Every successful hunt is an impromptu holiday. After the hunters have taken care of the grueling work of killing and bringing home the whale, more crew members join to help break down the animal. They clamber around the carcass with blades mounted on ax handles, their hands growing slippery and stiff in the blood and cold.

despite greater recognition of the cultural paternalism that early missionaries brought to the communityThe pandemic prompted the town to adopt a drive-thru format. Last Thanksgiving, a long line of cars tracked through the snow in Simmons Field downtown to receive their shares from the 16 whales killed that season, piled in sacks on frost-covered plastic tables.

Sam and Lee’s has been feeding Utqiagvik Mongolian beef, kung pao chicken, and other American Chinese standards for more than 50 years. Like many small-town Chinese restaurants of its generation, it also serves steaks, burgers, and diner-style breakfast plates of eggs and hash browns. You can get pizza here too, and $40 king crab platters.

Louise still takes food to funerals — “Everybody knows, somebody died, Sam and Lee’s coming with food for them,” she says — but for celebrations, locals order kimchi themselves. It has become a common craving among pregnant women. Devotees take caches of kimchi with them when they travel, whether they’re going on vacation to Hawaii or popping down to Anchorage. A two-week trip might call for a gallon order.

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