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Kei Ninomiya's spring Noir collection combines sculptural floral elements with playful punk-inspired tailoring. Created with floral artist Makoto Azuma, the garments feature moss-covered horns, pearl fringes, flower appliqués and playing-card motifs, presenting blooms as a gentle yet defiant form of armor against harshness and violence.
It’s not Kei Ninomiya who’d fault you there, but violence is not his style. Backstage after his spring Noir show, he offered the sibylline explanation of “petal rebellion,” which brought to mind Banksy’s “Flower Thrower” stencil mural — peaceable yet defiant.
In other hands, creatures with moss-covered horns and pearl-strung fringes that swayed like weeping willows and models with flowers coming out of their mouths or trussed up in tubes studded with orchids would indicate an M. Night Shyamalan-style fantasy. Not with Ninomiya, an ever affable and gentle soul under his trademark spiky mohawk. All the blooms coming out of his spring silhouettes were “a kind of armor of peace,” the designer added through a translator.
Make what you will of the image of fresh blooms falling to the ground and being trod underfoot, while dried petals left behind a trail of fluttering fragments. By contrast, under these ephemeral concoctions created with floral artist Makoto Azuma, with whom Ninomiya has previously collaborated, was one of Noir’s most straightforward collections on the clothing front.
With childlike giggles on the soundtrack and the apparition of playing card motifs, first as a gravity-defying geometric skirt then as suites in Plexiglass worn as harnesses, his lineup had something of a punk-rock Alice in Wonderland. The Noir-typical mix of motorcycle jackets, tailored blazers and crisp shirts were plentiful, but came softened by pearls, bows and ruffles where there might have been spikes, zips and other sharp edges in other seasons.
Fresh blooms found an echo in naïve five-petal appliqués that festooned a blouson or covered the entirety of a dress. Ninomiya also gave plenty of ways to explore his world without having to fall all the way down the rabbit hole, with a leather blouson with pearls highlighting its structure; a short-sleeved shirt finished with bows at the cuff and down the front; tiered skirts where each layer had its own drawstring set, and a cropped lightweight wool biker jacket where pockets were buttoned into a heart shape — and had 3D versions as ornaments on the back of the cuff.
Also easy to adopt were the shoes, through collaborations with footwear specialists Grenson and Haruta, from the U.K and Japan respectively.
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