A look back at the Chanel collection that cemented KarlLagerfeld as the kind of designer who always broke with tradition.
Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
But that was just one standout piece in a collection filled to the brim with classic Lagerfeld Chanel-isms we know today. Think: structured white gowns and little jackets puffed with black taffeta, black-and-white cocktail dresses covered in costume jewelry, exacting tailored blazers and wide-brim hats, gold jeweled buttons on suit jackets, little gloves, low-slung chain belts, and logos galore.
Lagerfeld took Chanel on a wild ride with Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, and Helena Christensen by his side . The designer joined the French house in 1983, but his revival and distinct vision of the label—once an old, dragging luxury house—came to fruition in the early ’90s. That little black dress become so popular, so lasting, that Johnny Valencia, owner of, was recently asked to track it down for a client. “Karl knew his buyer,” Valencia explains. “By decorating a classic shift dress with costume jewelry, the German designer pushed one of Chanel’s most profitable departments: costume jewelry.
Looking back at Chanel’s ’90s era, the 1992 collections feel particularly representative of Lagerfeld’s bold new vision. There’s a reason why collectors obsess over this specific period, after all. One could argue the spring 1992 couture collection was one of the most prolific moments of Lagerfeld’s career, when the designer asserted his voice and vision as Chanel’s future legacy.
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