Jean Paul Gaultier by Nicolas Di Felice Fall 2024 Couture Runway, Fashion Show & Collection Review: An abstracted, minimal take on corsets and lingerie dressing.
The long, sweaty wait for the Jean Paul Gaultier by Nicolas Di Felice couture show Wednesday night left guests plenty of time to contemplate how models might negotiate the narrow white runway between the tightly packed benches, and why the room had been arranged this way.
The collection hewed very closely to his recent sexually charged designs at Courrèges, with hook-and-eye fasteners open along the hipline to allow the entry of one hand near to private parts. It also steered clear of prints, color and volume, favoring plain fabrics torqued tightly around the body. Here was an abstract, minimalist take on Gaultier’s famous exploration of corsets and lingerie dressing, the hook-and-eye closures holding together tight pants, scattered as embellishments over a severe evening column, or joined up to create an airy chainmail, also for a stick-to-the-ribs gown.
The designer allowed that lavish embellishments and decoration are expected at couture, “and I’m not gonna lie, that’s not really my cup of tea.”
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