All eyes will be on Gucci and Louis Vuitton during the upcoming menswear season, as big returns and debuts pack the schedules across Pitti, Milan, and Paris.
The return of Gucci and Saint Laurent to Milan, Martine Rose at Pitti, and Emily in Paris: January’s menswear schedules are jostling with standouts and surprises.
The season will kick off on 10 January at trade show Pitti in Florence before moving to Milan three days later. It will conclude in Paris on 22 January, with Maison Margiela’s menswear show, John Galliano’s first in four years. Scheduled for 8pm, it’s designed to keep menswear editors in town until the very end and attract those arriving for the start of Couture Week on 23 January.
Pitti, Milan and Paris continue to draw key designers from the US and UK, thanks in part to the decline of standalone in-season menswear schedules in New York and London, where the focus on menswear always seemed secondary when presented alongside womenswear.
The two most-anticipated shows of the season, however, will see Italian and French menswear powerhouses returning to their respective home turf in very different circumstances. When Gucci rejoins the Milan schedule with a show at 2pm local time on 13 January, it will be almost eight years to the day since a then-unknown Alessandro Michele presented what would be his first show for the house.
The story at Saint Laurent, meanwhile, is more one of rediscovery. The house has not shown on the menswear schedule since near the end of Hedi Slimane’s second stint there, in 2015. Since then, under both Slimane and his successor Anthony Vaccarello, the brand has either revealed its menswear in a co-ed format or presented it via far-flung “destination” events.
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