The fashion industry has always been obsessed with thinness, but the body positivity movement promised a revolution of inclusivity. However, some argue that the trend has faded, and the rise of weight loss medication like Ozempic has brought back the focus on a slim physique. We investigate the impact of these factors on the body positivity movement in fashion.
The high fashion industry has always been synonymous with thinness, but for a brief moment in the 2010s, the body positivity movement was at the forefront. It promised a revolution of accepting bodies of all shapes and sizes, welcomed curves and advocated for inclusion, particularly on the runway. But 10 years on, industry insiders tell us things have shifted.
Was body positivity a flash-in-the-pan trend? And with help with weight loss medication such as Ozempic, is skinny back for good? We speak to designers, casting agents and models at Paris Fashion Week to investigate what is happening. Ashley Graham was the first 'curve' model on the cover of the annual swimsuit issue of Sports Illustrated in 2015. Here she is walking the Addition Elle runway during New York Fashion Week 2017. The body positivity movement, finds its origins in the hazy days of the 1960s and was helped by icons like Marilyn Monroe who broadened Hollywood's rigid beauty standard. It was brought to the forefront again in the 2010s, when Instagram was launched and influencers began to highlight fashion and beauty outside of the glossy magazines and runways. Helping this was the celebrity Kardashian family, whose curves triggered BBLs (Brazilian butt lift surgery) around the world. Enrika, a 28-year-old plus-sized model, said: 'When the body positivity movement emerged, it felt incredibly empowering and liberating.' 'It felt like an act of rebellion - what had always been criticised was now being appreciated. It was as if we had finally had enough of being judged.' Plus-size models were being booked for big brands, including Rihanna's highly coveted lingerie label, 'Savage x Fenty' which launched in 2018. The brand, valued at $1bn, became known for its runway extravaganzas, reminiscent of a modern alternative to the iconic Victoria's Secret shows, but this time with every body type on display. Savage x Fenty shows combine the runway with dance and musical performances from artists like Rosalía. 'When I got that call from my first modelling agency Storm - who discovered Kate Moss - I thought I was being punk'd,' she said. 'Before the 2010s, attitudes around bigger bodies weren't positive and I never thought being a plus-size model was a possibility. 'Seeing that narrative change over the last decade and a half has been life changing both emotionally, physically and financially.' Plus-sized model Felicity Hayward was scouted in the 2010s in an East London pub, dancing to Diana Ross. She was cast as Anna Nicole Smith for a shoot with Miles Aldridge. But then around 2020, progress started to slow. And come the Autumn/Winter of 2024, of the 8,800 looks across 230 shows, just 0.8 per cent were on plus-size models, At the same time, a new weight loss drug used to treat diabetes came onto the market and skyrocketed in popularity. Semaglutide, also known as Ozempic, Mounjaro and Wegovy, curbs the appetite of users, and was started crediting the drug for their newly slim frame and it was only a matter of time before that trickled down to consumers. As Ozempic and its counterparts become more commercially available for aesthetic purposes, industry insiders claim it has affected the body positivity movement. A former model, Moya, said: 'We've seen how quickly the narrative shifted, with celebrities and influencers using surgeries or medication like Ozempic to chase what's considered 'in Vogue'.' Another model, Jenny, said: 'When I realised skinny was back, it was positive because I was going to get more jobs.' We're in this moment where we're seeing the pendulum sort of swing back to skinny being 'in' and often these things are treated like a trend and we don't want them to be.' The 'I love Ozempic' tee really hit a nerve,' laughed Nan Li, the brand's creative director who claims the T-shirt was satire. 'With the rise of Ozempic, so many people are using it. Over the last few years, celebrities just lost weight and didn't talk about it.' Fast-forward to January, when Men's AW25 Fashion Week lands in Paris and audiences get a litmus test in real-time of exactly where brands stand. Aside from a selection of designers, including Rick Owens, LGN and Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, I can count on two hands how many plus-sized models I saw at a week of shows. 'There's a handful of plus-sized models but they're not really plus - they're normal-sized. They are cast in every show to make the brand appear body positive.' Amidst the hustle and bustle of fashion week, Shaun Beyen, casting director for iconic French brand Fursac, told the BBC: 'The only motivation for a brand is to sell clothes - that's it. I don't think we need to lie about this. 'Brands adopted body positivity in the 2010s because in part they saw it as a commercial opportunity, and when they saw it was no longer performing as they would hope in 2020, they hopped off
BODY POSITIVITY FASHION TRENDS OZEMPIC SIZE INCLUSION PARIS FASHION WEEK
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