The COVID-19 shutdown is affecting the flow of essential Oaxacan ingredients to L.A.
On those mornings, sometimes as early as 2 a.m., a truck hauling hundreds of pounds of Oaxacan ingredients — shrink-wrapped balls of the stretchy white cheese called quesillo; sacks of chiles de agua; stacks of the thin, crisp, hubcap-sized tortillas called tlayudas — were unloaded at a designated drop-off point near his restaurants.“I had to call my suppliers in Oaxaca and tell them: ‘I’m not buying anything because my two dining rooms are closed,’” he said.
The family he works with to source tlayudas has temporarily shut down its tlayuda-making operation on the outskirts of Oaxaca City due to stay-home restrictions, he said. Before the pandemic made travel difficult, Vasquez, a native of Oaxaca’s Valles Centrales region, traveled regularly to visit family and build relationships with vendors.“We have a dedicated person for the chiles de agua, a dedicated person for our spices, and a dedicated tlayudera that was producing about 400 tlayudas a week for us,” he said.
Vasquez works closely with his mother and sister in Oaxaca, who coordinate with vendors and arrange for the products to be shipped from Oaxaca City to Tijuana via air freight. “The Sierra Juarez is completely shut down right now. Products can’t come in or out of there,” he said.A tlayuda at one of the locations of La Mayordomía, the Oaxacan market owned and operated by Zeferino Garcia and his family. Garcia says it’s proven challenging to get basic Oaxacan ingredients to Los Angeles.
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