View the complete Iris van Herpen Fall 2019 Couture fashion show:
Writing about Iris van Herpen one can find oneself mired in the technicalities of her creations. There’s computer programming and physics and alchemy behind each one; they’re complicated to make and just as difficult to explain. Better is to think of her work as art pieces, with each dress a canvas and the model who wears it the frame on which it’s stretched.
This season van Herpen collaborated with the American kinetic sculptor Anthony Howe, whose pieces are powered by the wind. His spherical “Omniverse” sculpture had pride of place in the Elysée Montmartre venue. The designer said she was compelled by the way its arching vertebrae, spinning on a curving axis, simultaneously expand and contract. Her finale dress was made in the image of “Omniverse,” with rotating wings constructed of aluminum, stainless steel, and feathers.
What’s so interesting about this collection is the way that even the pieces without Howe’s input were kinetic. They positively vibrated. Van Herpen achieved this in part by utilizing the Japanese ink on water technique of suminagashi; it created a print of lines, which she heat bonded to mylar and laser cut into contrapositive ways.
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