The city is uniquely dominated by female designers who have found success dressing their friends, rather than the entire world.
put on shows peopled not merely with celebrity supporters dressed by dealmaker stylists, but bonafideIt’s the kind of thing that would be unthinkable in Europe. Sure, Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens shows are packed with customers , but these people form a community around the designers rather than a mere customer base. They are friends, or friends of friends, of the person or team making the clothes, and attach themselves to the labels like other people are attached to football teams or bands.
with that hyper-real cookie on the front, or wearing one of Collina Strada’s highly recognizable slip dresses, shows that you align with one of a series of the city’s fashion micro-niches.Rodarte, the punk-poetic brand led by sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy, sells fantastic golden age of cinema slipdresses and gowns for upwards of $2000 on Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi. Which is to say: their appeal is wide.
I loved her lime and green leopard-ish print pants and top with lace trim; model of the moment Alva Claire in a gooey, webby minidress; and a sharp-mint suit with floral embroidery at the hem. If you didn’t like the masks, that’s your problem, because the ever-growing number of Collina acolytes totally get it.
The scene of the Collina and Rodarte shows shared something tenderly nerdy—a bit o’ cosplay couture, with the animal makeup at Collina and the fairy wings and drawings at Rodarte. Not every person who buys clothing wants to look like an art world dealmaker , or someone who’s read all of Rachel Cusk’s books like seven times , or just really hot and sexy and cool .
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