'This is a French house but they went right back to America and found another Black man, and gave me the keys”
ride along the Seine at early sunset; the powers that be at Louis Vuitton had called for an 8:40 PM arrival,, for Pharrell Williams’s debut show as the label’s menswear creative director. Unlike the house’s Miami show in 2021, which featured hyper-branded VanDutch cruisers shuttling guests to an abandoned marine stadium, this ferry was faceless, cruising right down the middle of one of the most photographed waterways on earth.
As we approached Pont Neuf, the bridge in front of Louis Vuitton’s world headquarters and the oldest span in Paris, it became clear why we needed to arrive by water and why we needed to be discreet: Williams had shut down the entire thing, paving it in Damier-checked gold.
In a statement, Williams added: “When you come from a culture that has been purposefully blocked and set in disadvantaged situations, you can’t imagine what’s even possible. But there’s this narrative that’s changing. So many of us are being swept up from one place and landing in fertile soil in other places, and being treated and watered and sunned like all souls should be. I can say there is an impact in that way, which is changing. It’s not enough but it’s happening.
Novelty is also never far from a Louis Vuitton menswear runway, and perhaps the most fitting piece of all was a monogram-canvas bag in the shape of the exactthat brought guests in: Indicative of the moment, and symbolic in that Williams was charting familiar waters albeit with a fresh, distinctive, and unmistakable approach.
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