Tequila, Indian style From 1843mag
n a quiet part of Goa on the west coast of India, three identical enamelled cups were perched on a bar. Each contained a clear alcohol. In one cup was a local Indian spirit. The other two had different brands of mezcal. This spirit is made from agave, a plant grown across a semi-arid swathe of Mexico, the best-known variant of which produces tequila. To judge the drinks, a veteran of boozy sabbaticals in Oaxaca, the spiritual home of all mezcals, sipped from each cup twice.
Tequila is made from blue agave, a particular variety of spiny succulent native to Mesoamerica which can be found on Mexico’s dusty plains. Mezcal, its country cousin, can be made from a number of different agaves. Like many other regional foodstuffs – parmesan and champagne among them – there are tight restrictions over what products can be called tequila or mezcal. According to World Trade Organisation regulations, no spirit with these names can be made anywhere else in the world.
Nazareth opened his factory in 2010. He built what he describes as “madness in the middle of nowhere”. The first thing you see as you approach the site in Andhra Pradesh in south-east India is a curious-looking water tower, built in the shape of a Martini glass. On a star-shaped plot, surrounded by fields, one man’s daydream has become India’s first craft distillery. The borders, which stretch to 2.5km, are planted high with manicured giant agave.
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