The ukhova heritage banana (also known as ‘banana ka Shaka’) offers us a rare gourmet glimpse of the man behind the myth.
Main image: Lemogang Tsipa as King Shaka in Shaka iLembe, now streaming on Showmax. Left, top: James Saunders King’s sketch of King Shaka from the 1820s. Left, bottom: Okhova, aka banana ka Shaka Zulu heritage bananas. Rural KwaZulu-Natal is undoubtedly lovely beyond any singing of it, but admiration mutates into anxiety-tinged irritation when the directions sent by a family of banana farmers are confusing, and the absence of a cell signal precludes a clarifying call.
The TV contract has long since ended, but my interest in the great man’s fruit fixation has persisted. Why am I still interested? Because personal details on Shaka are extremely elusive. But wait, there’s more! isiZulu has many noun classes with distinct pronouns. Class 1a and 2a are used for people e.g. personal pronouns: Umama and Omama . Most plants use impersonal pronouns from class 3 and 4 , but bananas have human personal pronouns Ukhova and Okhova. They are part of people.On one level, his favourite food may reflect early experiences.
As the founding father of modern Zulu identity, was he linking himself with the creation story? Was he casting himself in the role of first man, making the world anew and generating all that would come after him? A series of half-connections through friends of friends of friends led me to these potholed hills and eventually to the Vundla family farm at Endloveni. Sipho Vundla seemed pleased but surprised by our interest in okhova. He knew the term ‘banana ka Shaka’ but not why the fruit was referred to in this way. Any associated prestige has long since expired.
The proof of any pudding is in the eating. For what it is worth, I prefer the taste and texture of okhova to that of Cavendish bananas. They can be eaten raw and cooked. Raw they are firm, fragrant and gently sweet without the cloying quality that puts me off the supermarket stock. Banana ka Shaka have yet to make a formal debut in the fine dining space. Chef Johannes Richter of the Living Room at Summerhill in KZN knew the fruit but not its royal connection.
Having been offered a tiny taste of the cumin-ukhova combination, I can confirm that it is exquisite and inspired.
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