In LouisVuitton's menswear show, VirgilAbloh blends personal histories with a heritage brand.
Virgil Abloh is singularly positioned within the upper echelons of fashion as one of the few heritage brand creative directors to have experienced fashion from the outside. “I’m very much cognizant of the time that I couldn’t get into fashion shows myself, cognizant of my friends going to Paris and I couldn't go because I couldn’t afford a plane ticket. I was just watching [fashion shows] via social media and through my friends,” Abloh says over a Zoom from his Chicago home.
That line is mostly young people, mostly young men, and mostly young Black men that support and consume Abloh’s work. Those who have followed his career have certainly heard the designer’s refrain about his goals before. When asked who is served by this new model of showing collections year-round via cumulative fashion shows online, he replied: “You know who I’m serving? It's the 17-year-old version of myself.
The references to Ghanian, Black American, and Afrofuturist cultures are diffused throughout the collection, from the literal flag prints to more abstract expressions. Checknosis, “a term for the technical use of checked patterns in a hypnotizing or hallucinogenic way to bend and open the mind to feelings of compassion, harmony, and unity,” is a marriage of Brit-Jamaican ska and LV Damier.
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