Normally, “cultural fashion” is associated with tradition, techniques, and aesthetics passed down through generations. And while that’s true, Vogue writer ChrisjAllaire is looking to expand the definition with his new book, The Power of Style
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Normally, the phrase “cultural fashion” is associated with tradition, techniques, and aesthetics passed down through generations. And while that’s true,“In order for tradition to survive it has to adapt and you have to think about it in a new way,” Allaire says. “That was the throughline for everything in the book. Yes, heritage is super important, but for the new generation to be interested in it it has to be current and fresh.
The book, out April 27 from Annick Press, is geared towards young people who are exploring their own identity through fashion. Allaire, who is Ojibwe, rarely saw himself represented in the fashion industry or media. Instead, he saw Indigenous stereotypes that he didn’t fit into. “I felt like I had to look like what I saw on the screen, the dark skin, the beautiful braid. And I obviously don’t look like that,” Allaire said. “So it really messed with me and I felt like I wasn’t Indigenous enough.
The chapters explore Indigenous ribbon work , the politics of hair, cosplayers, heels for men, and more. Each section weaves in the history with interviews edited by Allaire. In the chapter about heels, he speaks with New York-based designers Henry Bae and Shaobo Han about their label Syro and how heels can be a celebration of queer identity, while also adding in the historical context that these shoes were originally designed for men.
is resolutely celebratory. “The aim was to empower kids,” Allaire says. “There are some meaty subjects, we tried to put in some history. But we wanted to make it a fun read.”