In Amalfi, Italy, cooks who make pesto forgo the classic fresh basil in favor of strips of zest from local lemons. Combined with almonds, Parmesan and oil, the zest makes a bright, aromatic pesto perfect for tossing with pasta. A little sugar is added to temper the acidity and replicate the flavor of the larger, sweeter lemons on the Amalfi Coast.
This image released by Milk Street shows a recipe for spaghetti with lemon pesto, from the cookbook “Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year.” This image released by Milk Street shows a recipe for spaghetti with lemon pesto, from the cookbook “Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year.
Instead of pounding the pesto with a mortar and pestle — as is classic with basil pesto — we use the food processor. The zest is removed from the lemons in large, thin strips, leaving the bitter white pith behind. Half of the strips go into the pasta water, along with a little salt and sugar; the remainder are added to the bowl of the food processor, then pulsed with the almonds and cheese until the mixture resembles coarse sand. Olive oil then is added and processed until just incorporated.
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