See every look from Imitation of Christ's spring 2021 collection.
There’s no duplicating Tara Subkoff’s inventive theatricality. Twenty years after Imitation of Christ’s first show on the escalators in a subway station she’ll stage simultaneous presentations in Los Angeles and New York, at 6 p.m. PT and 9 p.m. ET respectively, for spring 2021. These performances will not be identical, but each will consist of a capella singers accompanied, after a fashion, by one or more skateboarders, all of whom will be attired in IOC. Plus, there is a video.
Upcycling or “resurrecting” existing pieces is the central tenet of Imitation of Christ, and it means that every piece is unique. Collection themes do emerge, however, and are crystallized by the way they are presented. Skateboarding is the organizing principle this time around, and Subkoff describes the clothes as “glamorous activewear,” i.e., a vintage slip attached to the front of a sports jersey., Subkoff is again working with a group of young co-creative directors.
Subkoff became acquainted with them when she was feeling a bit blue—and who isn’t these days, she asks? Struggling to find inspiration, the designer started visiting local skateboard parks, which she found to be “heavy on the dude feeling” until she noticed the young female skaters trying to master tricks, falling down, and starting over again. In their determination Subkoff says she found a “good metaphor for what it feels like, to me, to be female in this world in some capacity.
Here, then, was the hope Subkoff says she needed to move forward and for her imagination to take flight, as these young female skaters seem to do when they nail a trick. “When you watch something absolutely extraordinary,” she says, “your heart lifts and you just can’t believe the capacity that human beings have.
The catastrophe cannot be ignored, especially right now in California, where wildfires are raging and the air quality is dismal. In light of these circumstances, it’s poignant that the designer has asked the singers to end their performances with “I Think It’s Gonna Rain Today,” a Nina Simone song that’s at once bleak and somehow uplifting.
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