I Own More Than 20 Mortars and Pestles—and I'm Not Sorry

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I Own More Than 20 Mortars and Pestles—and I'm Not Sorry
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Whether it's made from clay, marble, or volcanic rock, each of these ancient tools has its own superpower in the kitchen.

while touring the region with Andrea Hagan of Mezcouting, a company that creates personalized experiences to explore the area’s unique gastronomic culture.

During one outing, after visiting a mezcal distillery near Santa Catarina Minas, we stopped for a lunchtime cooking class in the outdoor kitchen of the town’s library. Overlooking the valley, I watched two of the community’s women press dried chiles into a clay comal to toast them over a live fire. Next they soaked the chiles in water to rehydrate before grinding them in a well-used molcajete to a rustic paste.

The following day at Central de Abastos, the largest market in Oaxaca, I was mesmerized by the fruity, smoky pasilla de Oaxaca chiles —so much so that I brought back a bag of the chiles and a basalt molcajete in my suitcase. In the year or so since, I have enjoyed the dried chiles rehydrated and ground with spices to a brick-red paste for salsas and marinades that I mix together off the cuff.

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