No iceberg no spinach no romaine no problem
on Manhattan’s west side. Mattos is a subtle, soft-spoken guy. The better you get to know him, the more he reveals. I guess you could say the same is true about his food—it appears simple, almost minimalist. But with each bite, it grows more complex, more rewarding.. That’s the first lesson I learned—you and I toss a salad, Mattosa salad. He considers each ingredient, giving one a drizzle of oil, another a dash of sea salt or a sprinkle of lemon or orange zest .
“Every ingredient has its own texture or density,” Mattos explained. “Butter lettuce, for instance, is different from escarole. If you tossed them together, the butter lettuce would wilt.” With that, a light bulb went off in my head. A few nights earlier at home, I made what I thought was going to be an excellent salad: butter lettuce, shaved radish, toasted pepitas, and cubed avocados. I tossed it all together with a shallot vinaigrette and…it turned into a gloppy mess. The tumbled avocado resembled guacamole, the lettuce wilted, and the nutty seeds got lost.For his fennel salad, a staple on the Altro Paradiso menu, Mattos started by breaking up a handful of Castelvetrano olives.
And, oh yeah, for a welcome note of richness, he shaved some provolone picante atop the olives before crowning it all with a mountain of dressed fennel.. But then I started eating it. A bite of the bracing anise-flavored vegetable gave way to buttery cheese, which eventually yielded to those oil-slicked, orange zest–dusted olives. Unlike the salad I had made at home, no two bites were the same. With each forkful, I tasted each individual ingredient.
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