And pkgourmet will take it over American in her grilled cheese any day of the week.
Chintan Pandya, the chef of Adda, told me that he first tried Amul cheese when he was 9 or 10—it was a luxury to his family, something that he was only able to eat on special occasions. “I still crave the taste of it. Every other cheese, despite the best of taste and ingredients, just feels a bit cerebral.”
Last year, he says there was a shortage of Amul cheese in New York and New Jersey. “I ended up personally driving to stores in Philadelphia to pick up as much Amul cheese as I could,” he says. “My chefs recommended that I use cheddar, but I would not do it as I felt it would be affecting the integrity of the Indian dish.”
Similarly, Anita Jaisinghani, the chef of Pondicheri, grew up in India with Amul as the only cheese available in stores. She calls it her “secret weapon” in her restaurants. “It has a creamy, intense flavor that is like none other,” she says. “And this is from a person who eats almost nothing processed.”
Amul cheese’s success is somewhat improbable. Here’s an almost completely artificial food that has depth and complexity, that’s beloved by Indians alike , and that I would take over cheddar any day of the week. I am fully aware of its flaws, but I love it so much anyway. Unlike most other things in my life, I accept Amul cheese for exactly what it is. And there’s something pretty wonderful about that.
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