How Traditional Hidalgo-Style Barbacoa Is Made in an Underground Pit in Los Angeles

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How Traditional Hidalgo-Style Barbacoa Is Made in an Underground Pit in Los Angeles
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Gonzalo Ramirez’s raises and butchers his own goats in a 24 hour process.

, originating from the Hidalgo state of Mexico.

After butchering, the lamb’s shoulders, tailbone, spine, and other meaty parts are used for the barbacoa and consomé, and nothing goes to waste: the intestines and stomach are used to make pancita and moronga . To make barbacoa, Ramirez uses a pit in the ground, which is cleaned before every cook. Once the fire is set in the pit, Ramirez places in the consomé and set a grill over the pit so the meat has something to rest on. The grill is covered in maguey leaves “to enhance the flavors,” says Ramirez. “And it’s going to help prevent the meat from burning.”

The meat then gets laid over the top of the leaves and is arranged in a specific way, every time they do it. “If we don’t arrange it properly, the meat might still get cooked, but not the way we want it,” says Ramirez. “I can’t change the layout.” The pit heats up the consomé at the bottom, creating steam that rises to the top of the pit and circles back down. “The pit is actually hotter at the top,” says Ramirez.Twelve hours later, Ramirez extracts the meat from the pit. The cooked pieces of meat get separated per cut and put into boxes to be sold.Sign up for theThanks for signing up!Oops. Something went wrong. Please enter a valid email and try again.

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