Here’s how to do the perfect spring lunch or dinner party, according to the author of the new cookbook ‘Better at Home.’
It’s that time of year when the idea of braising something starts to lose its luster. After months of slow-cooking, roasting, and eating delightfully sludgy, but primarily brown, beige, dusty, or pale orange colored foods, they begin to take their toll both on my palate and spirit.
It’s also around this time that I start yearning for crunchy green things, longer, lighter days, and the promise of warmer weather, where sitting outside might actually be an option. There is a dance I have in the kitchen for every season, but spring is when I find my rhythm. The food I want to make becomes less complicated. The ingredients can almost do the work themselves. My urge to host lavish lunches becomes renewed. Instead of huddling up in front of a fire with bowls in hand, I start thinking of long tables, breezy weather, and crisp glasses of wine. My newest cookbook, Better at Home, is, in many ways, a love letter to meals with my friends. Don’t get me wrong, I love going out for dinner. There is nothing better than sidling up to a bar, ordering an ice-cold martini, crab cocktail, and a side of fries, and having someone make it all for you. But my life looks very different now than it did living in New York City in my 20s and 30s, staying out till the wee hours. These days, we’re eating at our house or friends’ homes in the Hudson Valley, and then in the summer months, I’m cooking from a very rural part of Nova Scotia, and I couldn’t be happier. In spring, a Sunday afternoon starts something like this. Shrimp butter is set out on a vintage plate for people to snack on and served with snappy radishes, snap peas, thinly sliced fennel, and very good bread. A platter of shaved asparagus is gently tossed with nutty Comté, topped with crispy prosciutto and toasted almonds, alongside a slowly roasted salmon rubbed with harissa and brown sugar. For something sweet, seeded drop biscuits with freshly whipped cream and strawberries. Everything is always served family style to keep things convivial. To pour, I’d choose one or two of the many gorgeous Chardonnays from 00 Wines out of the Willamette Valley that drink exactly like a white Burgundy. For non-imbibing friends, I'd have a bottle of the recently launched Mother Root from the UK, close at hand to mix with soda water and a citrus wedge. As of late, I can’t get enough of either of these beverages. The table itself does not require a florist on retainer. Look for vessels, not vases. I fill whatever I have—be it ceramic pitchers, wide-mouthed glass jars, or vintage etched tumblers—with single-variety blooms such as ranunculus, anemones, or bunches of sweet peas. No real arrangements, just some flowers in water left to sit elegantly unfussed. This spring, I’m using undyed natural linen layered with napkins in rose, gold, and warm terracotta, colors that look like they’ve been washed a hundred times and only improved, just as I hope the weather will soon be too. We’re almost there. Spicy Shrimp Butter Serves 6 to 8 Time: 20 minutes This retro-inspired snacking butter will be a hit at any cocktail party. It’s best served right away but can be made a day in advance; just be sure to bring it to room temperature before serving to maximize its spreadability. I love serving this dip with Triscuits, but any cracker will suit. Leftovers can be stirred into pasta. Ingredients Kosher salt 1⁄2 pound wild-caught shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 medium shallot, roughly chopped 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets 1⁄4 cup loosely packed fresh Italian parsley, both leaves and tender stems 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 teaspoon grated Meyer lemon or regular lemon zest 2 tablespoons Meyer lemon or regular lemon juice, plus more to taste 1 teaspoon Calabrian chili paste Triscuits and crudités, for serving Method Set up a large bowl of ice and water and have near the stove. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and add the shrimp. Cook until the shrimp are completely pink and firm to the touch, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the ice bath and let sit until cool enough to handle and then pat them dry. Transfer the shrimp to a food processor along with the shallot, anchovies, and parsley and pulse together until they form a paste. In a large bowl, beat the butter with a wooden spoon or spatula until smooth. Transfer the shrimp paste to the bowl of butter, along with the lemon zest, lemon juice, Calabrian chili paste, and a good pinch of salt. Stir together until everything is well combined. Taste and adjust with more lemon juice and salt if needed. Transfer to a shallow bowl and serve immediately with crackers and crudité. Shaved Asparagus Salad with Comté, Toasted Almonds, and Fried Prosciutto Serves 4 Time: 25 minutes The idea for this recipe came to me in a dream—it happens sometimes! I’m glad it did, and you will be, too. Asparagus is shaved and tossed with cheese, toasted almonds, and fried prosciutto and then tossed with bright lemon juice and olive oil—it hits all the notes you want it to. I’ve called for Comté cheese, which has been increasingly available in grocery stores, but if you can’t find it, feel free to substitute Gruyère; they both offer great nuttiness. If you’d like to make this vegetarian, simply leave out the prosciutto, it’s still delicious. This salad is best served in spring when asparagus spears begin popping up at the market. Ingredients 1 bunch asparagus , woody ends snapped off 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 thin slices prosciutto 1⁄2 cup roasted Marcona almonds or regular almonds Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3⁄4 cup shaved cheese, such as Comté, Gruyère, or Parmesan 1⁄2 cup roughly chopped soft fresh herbs, such as mint, tarragon, or parsley, or a combination 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Flaky salt, for serving Method Using a Y-peeler or vegetable peeler, shave the asparagus into long, thin strips and transfer to a large bowl and set aside. Line a plate with paper towels and have near the stove. In a 12-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the prosciutto and cook until it is golden and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the skillet and place on the paper towels to drain. Add the almonds to the pan, toss to coat in the prosciutto oil, and cook, stirring frequently, until toasty and golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and when cool enough to touch, roughly chopped the nuts. With your hands, tear the prosciutto into bite-size pieces. Season the asparagus with salt and pepper. Add half the cheese, half the nuts, half the prosciutto, half the herbs, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the lemon juice. Taste and adjust with more salt if needed. Top with the remaining cheese, nuts, herbs, and prosciutto. Harissa and Brown Sugar Salmon Serves 6 to 8 Time: 25 minutes This simple salmon recipe has only a few ingredients and still manages to over-deliver on both flavor and presentation. I first made this dish for a big lunch that I was hosting at home with my wildly creative friends—Dan Pelosi, Nicolette Miller, Paula, Kari, and Helen among them. Paula said it was the best salmon she’s ever had! It is very good. I like serving this family-style at the table as it encourages conversation, especially if not everyone knows each other well. Think of it as a built-in ice breaker. Serve with Roasted Potato Salad with Za’atar, Feta, and Mint and Little Gems with Avocado, Pistachios, and Miso-Honey Dressing—both recipes can be found elsewhere in Better at Home. Ingredients 2 salmon fillets Kosher salt 1⁄3 cup harissa paste 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon light brown sugar 2 cloves garlic, grated 2 tablespoons good-quality white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Flaky salt, for serving 1⁄4 cup roughly torn herbs, such as dill, parsley, or sage, for serving Method Preheat the oven to 400°F . Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Set the salmon on the sheet pan and season well all over with salt. In a medium bowl, stir together the harissa paste, brown sugar, garlic, vinegar, and olive oil. Season with salt. Taste and adjust seasonings with more salt and vinegar as needed. Pour over the salmon and with your hands or use a small spatula, coat the fish well with the marinade. Bake until the salmon is cooked through and reaches an internal temperature of 145°F , 15 to 20 minutes. Finish with a few pinches of flaky salt and the herbs and serve family-style at the table.
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