A longtime staple in Ayurvedic cooking, kala namak, with its distinctive sulfuric notes, became indispensable in infusing vegan food with “eggy” flavor.
The vegan cookbook author and restaurateur Isa Chandra Moskowitz has crystalline recollections of her first brush with kala namak. She encountered it while visiting a punk house in Minneapolis in the early 1990s, where people were cooking a tofu scramble together. “So I was introduced to it by a Palestinian punk rocker in the Midwest,” Moskowitz wroteThat meal kindled a lifelong devotion to kala namak.
To Moskowitz, the first clue that kala namak was broadening its reach was a visit to an artisan salt shop in Portland, Ore., a year after the release of her cookbook, when she saw a sign encouraging shoppers to sprinkle kala namak on their eggs. Kala namak remains an active part of Moskowitz’s cooking repertoire. She uses it to perk up her homemade vegan mayonnaise, her potato salads and her avocado toasts, to name a few. More recently, kala namak appeared in her 2019 book “
,” where a few flurries of this salt make a bowl of mashed chickpeas bear a delightfully uncanny resemblance to an egg salad.But mainstream awareness of kala namak was still slow-going over the past decade, said Vora of Rainbow Plant Life. “I feel like when I first went vegan in 2016, it was kind of like this hyper-specialty ingredient that nobody was really going to go out of their way to seek out — at least, non-South Asians,” Vora remembered.
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