Fried chicken is community. We asked five photographers to document the many ways the dish brings people together
, a Guatemala-based fried chicken franchise, pollo y papas has been served all over Guatemala and wherever Guatemalans gather. Most nights in LA that’s here, where Isabél, a street vendor from Solalá, Guatemala, dips her chicken in a well-seasoned batter before frying it to order and dousing it and the fries liberally with
It’s a prime social zone where the crew surfs, plays music, and potlucks together on a regular basis. “During the summer, you’ll find us here five days a week,” says Dustin Fernandez. Today fried chicken is on full display at the Kaiser Surf Crew’s potluck, alongside poke and salad, steamed ahi and falafel. Sliced pineapple and Spam musubi squeeze in next to powdered doughnuts and namasu. At the center of it all, though, is the Zippy’s — a convenient post-surf selection: no utensil or plate required.
But for those in the know, the real party is inside a nondescript office building in the middle of the block, five floors above the street-level bustle. Turntable LP is the marriage of New York’s Korean fried chicken craze of the mid-2010s and noraebang, the Korean concept of private singing rooms that, stateside, is widely referred to as karaoke.
In April, St. Joseph Catholic Church in Moulton, Texas, celebrated Easter with its annual fried chicken picnic, inviting people from across the region to chow down and raise money for the church. German and Czech communities settled in Texas in the 1800s, searching for economic stability. As a result, there’s now a vibrant culture in Central Texas filled with distinct food traditions, like kolaches, klobasnek, and fried chicken picnics that draw thousands to small towns like Moulton.
The setup is elaborate. Community members gather as early as 4 a.m. to begin prepping the sides — coleslaw, mashed potatoes, and green beans — and more than 6,500 pieces of chicken. The mostly man-led kitchen creates an assembly line, with roles for sorting and seasoning the chicken with salt and pepper, before covering the poultry in milk and seasoned flour, and then dropping the pieces into piping-hot fryers.
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