An expert breaks down everything you need to know about the latest It ingredient in beauty.
Exosomes are everywhere right now, after gaining major traction in the skincare space earlier this year. But the latest buzzword in beauty isn’t just fodder for advertisements, Reels, or clinical brochures—it’s an ingredient that actually delivers, supporting superior skin regeneration and repair.
“I think the obsession is justified,” Dr. Daniel Gould, the board-certified Beverly Hills plastic surgeon, says of the recent exosome mania. “Exosomes represent the single largest leap in aesthetic innovation for skincare in the last 15 to 20 years.” Exosomes are cells that are produced naturally in humans, animals, and plants. These cells act as miniature messengers, transporting beneficial molecules like proteins and lipids to other cells. But all exosomes are not created equal. Just because someone uses the term “exosomes” in their product doesn’t always mean there’s real science or proven efficacy behind it. To understand the potential of exosomes in your skincare routine, it’s crucial to first distinguish between the types currently on the market: there are plant-derived exosomes, exosomes derived from stem cells and animals, and platelet-derived exosomes, which the skincare brand Plated—for whom Dr. Gould is an ambassador—is doing exclusivelyThe discovery of platelet-derived exosomes was entirely accidental; they were initially developed to aid cardiovascular tissue regeneration. But researchers at the Mayo Clinic’s Van Cleve Cardiac Regenerative Medicine Program discovered that, when applied topically, the platelet-derived exosomes offered profound benefits for skin health, improving texture, reducing fine lines, and minimizing wrinkles on the skin. Below, Dr. Gould explains why exosomes are garnering so much attention, how platelet-derived exosomes have the most impressive and visible results, and why this is more than just a passing trend.Fundamentally, exosomes are the cellular messengers of the body, carrying vital information from one cell to another. They are information packets, containing all sorts of biological data that help your body and skin tissues to communicate, repair, and regenerate. They also contain a blend of precious molecules, essential growth factors for the skin, which rejuvenate skin quality, reduce inflammation, and accelerate the skin-healing process in a profound way. In the past, exosomes were dismissed by scientists as cellular debris—essentially the biological equivalent of digital junk mail—discarded fragments from dead cells. But as time and research progressed, the truth turned out to be far more compelling. These tiny, unassuming vesicles are actually critical players in how cells communicate. They’re packed with actionable data that can influence cellular behavior in profound ways. Now, they’re being tested to improve conditions like heart disease, diabetes, and other neurodegenerative conditions.Platelet-derived exosomes are sourced from the body’s natural repair system and are specifically optimized for skin renewal. So topically, they rejuvenate the skin at a cellular level, addressing the underlying causes of skin aging, and enhancing the skin’s natural ability to regenerate itself and treat visible signs of aging. I like Plated’s Intense Serum, which is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles, fine lines and hyperpigmentation, and improve luminosity and skin texture in all skin types and tones, even the most sensitive.Because the source of the exosome greatly matters. Human-derived exosomes usually mean they are more biocompatible. These platelet-derived signals work better with human tissues, far better than plant-derived when it comes to tissue repair. We don’t fully understand what stem cells do with regards to aesthetic outcomes, and we never really have fully elucidated those pathways. In contrast, we know exactly what platelets do—that’s why we use PRF and PRP in many different aesthetic treatments. In fact, platelet-derived therapies dominate in the regenerative space for facial rejuvenation. There’s an ongoing trend in beauty: treatments that rely on skin injury to prompt skin healing. But this serum doesn’t have any irritating side effects, right? Right. In the past, we’ve seen the value of things like CO2 lasers and microneedling to create injury to the skin. These devices help stimulate the skin to undergo its own automated wound-healing response. But with exosomes, we have an opportunity to trigger these responses without causing the initial injury. Exosomes offer all the benefits with none of the downside.Within six weeks, skin quality is improving. By three months, the redness is decreasing, and at one year, patients seem to have the best quality skin they’ve ever had.
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