How designers are making their spring 2021 collections with leftover fabric, old patterns, and renewed clarity.
: Designers who make party dresses tried their hand at jeans and T-shirts; tailored suits were replaced by their quarantine counterparts—sweatshirts and joggers. There was still the odd gown or nipped trouser, items likely completed in the ignorant bliss of “pre-quar.” As a result, resort 2021 became less about trends and holiday dressing and more a study of what we’ll wear after lockdown—though with COVID-19 cases rising in parts of Europe and the U.S., that timeline feels hazier by the day.
It also feels like déjà vu for most of us. For years, designers, retailers, and editors have complained about the pace, the excess, and the toll it takes on creativity, not to mention the environment. It took a global pandemic to turn the conversation into action. Similar to the lifestyle changes Working with deadstock wasn’t a new challenge for Hearst; her north star goal is to eventually reach 80% non-virgin materials, and her team has been “working backwards” for a few seasons by purchasing rolls of preexisting fabric before the collection is even designed. That means there is a predetermined number of garments they can make, and by choosing not to develop all-new materials, the carbon footprint is significantly lower.
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