A burgeoning farm holidays movement on the Peloponnese lets producers make extra income while offering visitors a glimpse of the country’s slower side
n a large sunlit kitchen on Eumelia farm, an idyllic agritourism and wellness retreat set amid the endless olive groves of Greece’s southern Peloponnese, my classmates and I take turns using a long dowel-like rolling pin to stretch and roll balls of dough that we hope will become filo pastry.
When we’ve each created an approximation of our host and teacher Marilena Karadima’s perfect circle of pastry, we use them to make savoury spinach pies that we snack on while we learn to cook other traditional dishes, including a hummus-like dip calledmoustalevria , a pudding made with Eumelia olive oil, local walnuts, flour, sesame seeds, and must from the farm’s grapes.Before class, we worked in the garden with Marilena and her young son, harvesting spinach, rocket, a colourful variety of lettuces, purple-striped aubergines and aromatic herbs. Cooking done, we gather around a long outdoor table, enjoying wine produced on the farm and the dishes we’ve made together.
The farm is near Gouves village in the Laconia region and a world away from modern life. Together with her husband, Frangiskos Karelas, Marilena offers a variety of experiences that vary with the seasons. During August and September’s grape harvest, guests can join in and “stomp”, pressing the grapes to music, learning to make wine and tasting natural wines from across the Peloponnese.
While Eumelia is among the better known agritourism destinations on the Peloponnese, it is one of many across the peninsula and throughout Greece – and the opportunities for visiting farms and food artisans in this region are growing. As producers look to diversify in response to challenges posed by a volatile market and climate change, more and more are turning to agricultural and culinary tourism.
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