The tastemakers behind Corneliani, Isaia and Caruso share how their new breed of tailoring fits the way we dress now.
—to find out. With close to a year of normal life behind them, this trio has found a post-pandemic-shutdown stride. All three make their clothing in their own dedicated tailoring factories and have evolved their offerings in interesting ways. What, then, do they believe menswear should look like in the post-business-suit era of 2022 and beyond?for the fall/winter 2020 season, just before the pandemic struck.
PS: Yes, I heard the term from a close friend and CEO of a luxury brand when we were discussing design and luxury today. The “radical” works for me because I wanted to be a bit more provocative with the idea of tailoring for Corneliani. For me, this project is about how far I can push the envelope, while being relevant to the brand. The “chic” component is in the colors we used, which are very familiar but put into a differ- ent context.
GI: In 2019, the company was growing in a healthy way—we’d had double-digit growth every year for the past four or five years. Then Covid hit and we had a huge shock, because our sales were mostly concentrated in jackets, suits, dress shirts and ties. Perhaps only 20 percent of our sales was sportswear.GI: Even in the first lockdown, we started to plan a new strategy.
GI: Our customer can tell if a buttonhole is sewn by hand or not, and he can recognize hand-stitching, whether it’s in a jacket or a jersey polo. Certainly, our jersey is selling extremely well. We buy the fabrics from the best Italian mills, in cashmere-silk or cotton-silk, and cashmere-cotton blends.
Let’s get the obvious question out of the way at the start. How has the pandemic changed menswear for you, and for Caruso? Caruso’s fall/winter ’22 collection, inspired by perennial style muse Miles Davis, is awash in earthy colors and luxurious separates. And as Isaia mentioned, there’s not a tie in sight. Instead, sleek knitwear underpins tonal tailoring, and there’s a surprising focus on standout tuxedos, whether in bright brown silk-wool or bold silk-wool jacquard.
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