Tamagoyaki is a popular item on sushi menus, but it can be eaten hot or cold at any time of day, as part of a light breakfast, snack, lunch, or dinner.
Usukuchi soy sauce is lighter in color but still very salty and flavorful. It seasons the eggs well without turning them muddy brown.A modest amount of dashi makes for savory eggs without thinning out the mixture too much; with practice, you can increase the dashi volume to taste.
This is a frequent challenge when developing recipes, especially ones from cuisines outside the developer's expertise. And eggs, so basic and delicate, have a way of laying those limitations bare. Sure, I could have hacked my way through it, using my experience as a diner of Japanese food to land somewhere in the zone of a dish that would be recognizable as tamagoyaki, but I didn't really understand what the parameters were in terms of flavor and form.
I don't know what convinced him to finally say yes. Maybe he just pitied a fellow cook who clearly needed guidance. When he arrived at the Serious Eats test kitchen, I pelted him with questions—which pan was best? How much dashi was too much and how much too little? What did he think were unacceptable flaws in a finished tamagoyaki? Big holes? Weeping eggs? Browning?
When Chef Nakazawa arrived, he brought a much smaller, rectangular nonstick pan, just big enough to make a 2- or 3-egg tamagoyaki. This was the one I should learn on, he said. Once I'd mastered the technique with it, I could scale up to the larger nonstick pan, and, eventually, the copper one if I wanted.
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