The Hermes_Paris spring 2023 menswear collection is here. See every look:
Asked whether after 33 years in her position as the prime female designer of menswear in luxury she shapes her vision of men through a female gaze, Véronique Nichanian demurred. “Not at all,” she said: “I just try to propose things that make them more charming. I don’t judge the man…We were in the Manufacture des Gobelins, where the models walked a cobbled runway which inadvertently echoed the central motif of the collection.
In her time Nichanian has seen the codified structures of menswear bend, collapse and distort. She reflected this, tenderly and with sympathy, in designs that blended the bended parameters of dressing today. This was a summer collection, hence the literal solar knitwear and marine life prints of seahorses and crayfish.
There was great luxury in a lilac crocodile blouson, say, or the specially-commissioned masculine Birkins gridded with that distorted check, but also great practicality and empathy too. Difficult colors—apricot, lilac, raspberry—were blended through layering into harmonic balance via the gentle collision of sports and formal archetypes. Crisp suiting in pajama light cotton was delivered with pants discreetly elasticated beneath the skirt of the jacket.
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