Deep earth tones and rich neutrals set the stage for Véronique Nichanian’s latest menswear collection for Hermes. Discover the full collection here:
. After Covid, when we used to dress in the light comfortable jogging, now we want to be dressed more sexy for the evening. Wearing some earrings and something sexy like that—and I like the idea of doing the same in the daylight.” Al fresco sexiness? This was a frisky position to take—especially considering we were at Hermès, the epitome of civilized savoir faire. And yet Véronique Nichanian is not the longest-standing creative director in all of fashion for nothing.
Leather, the core metier of Hermès, is a sexy substance to wear and sometimes even touch: a second skin warmed by the person within it. Here Nichanian unleashed a gallery of pulsating pieces: wide-legged black calfskin pants, calfskin jackets, half-zip sweatshirts and overshirts, deerskin blousons, and a devastatingly gorgeous black cardigan top in lamb shearling.
The models wore slightly stacked triple monk strap boots or sneakers, and carried a selection of bags designed to drive any Hermès fan to ecstasy. There was portage sized for every persuasion, but the hottest hand-candy was undoubtedly plus-sized: the HAC bags that were the original basis of the house’s Birkin. Featuring a side pocket and chunky hardware, these came in a variety of seductive fabrications: Barénia Faubourg calfskin, mat crocodile, Fjord cowhide and Togo calfskin.
Other persuasive daywear pieces included folkish knits whose patterns transitioned from all-cream to color half way around the body and short-sleeved versions of the Guernsey. Many of the pieces featured little sections of braided leather inserted into the garments to resemble patches, a conceit Nichanian said spoke to her love of those who stay true to their most beloved garments by giving them therapeutic repair.
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