From Naomi Campbell to Cardi B, a new retrospective looks at the lasting impact of the French designer's revolutionary work.
These days, anyone who is anyone is wearing Thierry Mugler. Kim Kardashian’s Instagram feed is littered with homages to archival looks and stars from Rihanna and Nicole Kidman to Lady Gaga and Beyoncé have donned the French house in music videos and on the red carpet. Most recently, Bella Hadid donned an all-black ensemble down the catwalk at the
” exhibition at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts — the first solo exhibition dedicated to the French designer’s irreverent, iconoclastic, industry-changing career that opened earlier this year. Mugler was born in Strasbourg, France, in 1948. He took up professional ballet training at the age of 14, an experience that deeply informed his penchant for performativity and spectacle in design. After years of freelance work and one collection under his own label, “Café de Paris,” Mugler finally opened up his first boutique at the Places des Victoires in 1978.
The works of the notorious designer, who now prefers to be called Manfred Thierry Mugler, operate somewhere between fantasy and myth, transforming the wearers into futuristic femme fatales, goddesses, and exotic creatures that are, as the Montreal Museum of Fine Art’s Chief Curator Nathalie Bondil put it, “subjects, rather than objects, of their sexuality.”
More than 150 of these otherwordly designs, which were produced between 1977 and 2014, are featured in “Thierry Mugler: Couturissime.” Most of them have been restored and are being exhibited for the first time, alongside accessories, costumes, and the multiple videos and film clips he worked on off the runway — most notably, George Michael’s 1992 video, “Too Funky,” from which the Harley Davidson corset originally featured on Emma Sjöberg will be on view.
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