The Leon co-founder and food tsar HenryDimbleby tells theipaper about resigning as Tory food advisor, his weight struggles, and how we can take back power from the food industry
which shows his gut biome is also healthy. There is kimchi and kefir everywhere. “My wife hates that stuff,” he laughs.is by not turning food into a fight. “We tend to just put the food on the table, and that’s what’s for dinner, no discussion, but we also don’t force them if they don’t want it. We always eat together, and we don’t have different meals for us and for the children. That means they’ve been exposed to all sorts of flavours.
Dimbleby has more agency and power in his food choices than a lot of people. “If I’d been born into different circumstances I’d be a lot less healthy than I am.” Yet if the food expert with all this information, money, education, access to good food, has, what hope is there for the rest of us? For Dimbleby, an egg sandwich he recently had on a train exemplifies the national scandal we’re embroiled in.
We have some power over the food we choose to eat, of course, but Dimbleby believes it’s a trap to assume that this is all down to a modern lack of willpower. “The narrative in society is that it’s the individual’s fault, and so they also self-blame, yet that doesn’t make much sense. If one per cent of adults were obese in 1950, and now it’s 28 per cent, there is no way we’ve evolved into a state of low willpower.
Until last week, Dimbleby had been a non-executive board member at the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs offers on unhealthy foods in England until October 2023 to assess the impact on household finances in light of the cost of living crisis. “If you buy BOGOF chocolate bars, you think you’re taking it home to eat over a long period of time but you don’t. The average customer will eat 1.93 bars of chocolate more than if just sold at normal price, or cheaper.
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